Articles & Reviews: ZAGAT Buzz, San Francisco Edition

October 12, 2010

Attic and Osteria Coppa Add Sizzle to San Mateo

Don’t look now, but Downtown San Mateo is hot, at least in terms of food choices. Of course, fine-dining stalwarts like Viognier and 231 Ellsworth have long had their local following, as do Espetus Churrascaria and the more downscale Hotaru, Happy Cafe and AcquaPazza. But things have been really heating up since late summer, thanks to former Poleng Lounge chef, genre-bending Tim Luym, who resurfaced at Filipino-inspired Pan-Asian Attic. Then this fall we saw the opening of the artisanal pizza- and pasta-centric Osteria Coppa, headed up by Quince acolyte Chanan Kamen.

At Attic, a funky-looking two-story newcomer in Downtown San Mateo, Luym prepares his signature Pan-Asian street food and Filipino favorites, gussied-up with modern presentations and complemented by fanciful tropical cocktails; the upstairs dining room is tricked out with wooden lanterns, low-slung gong-topped tables and windows overlooking the street, while a small downstairs bar (dubbed Under the Attic) serves more Americanized drinks and happy-hour bites such as oysters and fish tacos (234 St.; 650-342-4506).

Artisanal pizzas and pasta get double billing at Osteria Coppa, a casual new San Mateo Italian from the folks behind Sam’s Chowder House that showcases serious, seasonally driven cucina and house-cured salumi from an ex-Quince chef, accompanied by Boot vinos (available by the glass, quartino or bottle) and urbane cocktails; the rustic storefront digs – think rough-hewn floors and butcher paper–topped tables – are breezy and family-friendly, and there’s a lounge and a patio out back (139 B St.; 650-579-6021).