Articles & Reviews: Martini Life article

August 26, 2010

Viva Italia: A Serious Italian Hot Spot Opens in San Mateo

It's one thing to spot an up-and-coming neighborhood. One minute the Western Addition is a place best avoided after dark; before you know it, Nopa's drawing crowds and rebranding the area as a whole.

An up-and-coming suburb is another story entirely. We're not suggesting that it started from a low place, per say, but we've definitely had our eye on San Mateo lately. Proving us right is the opening of Osteria Coppa, a brand-new Italian spot from the folks behind Sam's Chowder House.

Another suburban, Italian restaurant? Old news, you say. But wait, there's more! The head chef and menu designer at Osteria Coppa is none other than Chanan Kamen, who spent the past five years in the kitchen at Quince, hands down one of the most revered San Francisco restaurants.

And oh, the menu shows it. Salumi is cured in house; pizza dough is hand stretched and includes toppings like tuna confit and artichoke; pasta is handmade and served with everything from lobster to smoked trout and horseradish to a slow-cooked Bolognese.

Of course, there's an impressive wine list and a full cocktail menu. which we think will be best enjoyed on the restaurant's 40-seat patio. The sun shines a fair bit more in San Mateo, or so we hear.

In Brief
Osteria Coppa, now open at 139 South B St. in San Mateo. Check out the menu here.

Insider Tip
We're guessing you've been to Sam's Chowder House in Half Moon Bay, but have you sampled fare from the ChowderMobile? They're parked most weekends in Golden Gate Park, which is as good a place to enjoy a serious lobster roll as any.